How often do you spot deer where you live? Rarely to never, most likely. It’s a very different story in and around the Cairngorms national park in Scotland, where an abundance of the animals has resulted in damage to the land and a growing perception of the animal as a pest. 

But now a new project spearheaded by the Cairngorms National Park Authority (CNPA), is using this venison overflow to benefit locals. The ‘deer larder’ initiative will see wild venison being regularly donated to food banks and local schools, as well as opening up a carbon-friendly local market for the meat: in a bid for it to become financially self-sustaining, venison will also be sold to local shops, hotels and restaurants.

Two farming families are involved, Glenkilrie near Blairgowrie and Knockbarry near Pitlochry. Supported also by the National Lottery Heritage Fund, the national park authority hopes to inspire other UK land managers to consider how local communities and businesses can benefit from solving such challenges.

“This is an exciting project that will help farmers tackle a long-running problem, support the wider community, and preserve fragile habitats,” said Sandy Bremner, convener at the CNPA. “There’s great potential for it to be rolled out further, and we are already looking at other areas that would benefit.” 

The farms were awarded a grant to buy and manage deer larders. A ‘significant proportion’ of the meat processed, in the form of mince, meatballs, burgers and sausages, will make its way to community kitchens, school lunches and food banks.

The scheme comes under the umbrella of Cairngorms 2030, a programme of 20 projects working across a range of issues that those involved hope will see the Cairngorms become the first net-zero national park in the UK.

Helen Stewart of Knockbarry farm founded Fair Feast, a social enterprise that encourages the donation of venison meat. It has already donated a quarter of a tonne in venison to the community, and Stewart explains that it plans to deliver four tonnes annually.

The farm had been damaged due to the high deer population, said Stewart – she reported it to be 47 animals per square kilometre, almost five times over the recommended limit – so begun thinking up an “ethical and sustainable way to reduce deer numbers”.

Knockbarry has established an on-site deer larder and butchery – plus a full-time master butcher – to process the meat.

Fair Feast’s tagline is ‘Sales matched in food bank donations’, “so the public know that by buying Fair Feast they can power social change in their local community.”

We are focused on creating a strong network to allow schools across Scotland access to this delicious, high protein, low fat meat

Up the road, Glenkilrie farm has been owned by the Houstoun family for 67 years. Andrew farms in partnership with his father David and mother Morag. Lauren Houstoun, who co-owns Glenkilrie larder with her husband Andrew, told Positive News the scheme adds “value for everyone involved”.

“We are focused on creating a strong network to allow schools across Scotland access to this delicious, high protein, low fat meat, she added. “We’re currently donating the venison for use in home economics classes and ultimately hope it can be used on school menus in future.”

In 2024, Glenkilrie Larder Cook School was launched at the farm, where Houstoun plans to invite schools in to learn about how to cook deer meat. “We are passionate in our efforts to make sure children know where their food comes from,” she says.

Main image: Helen Stewart, project partner and farmer at Knockbarry, on her farm. Photographed by Rupert Shanks